Sunday 17^th witnessed a journey back in time at Zanzibar’s Motoni Palace.  But this time it was not the Sultan of Zanzibar who hosted the delighted audience who gathered to listen to the Italian group ‘Mezzotono,’ perform within the old Palace walls.

As dusk settled in, lanterns and large candles were lit. Strategically placed studio lights added to the effect, accentuating the high arches and illuminating the stage area. Back in 1844 the centre stage had been Sultan Said’s inner court or atrium, privy only to elite dignitary and privileged Palace residents.

Lit fires were cleverly positioned in the arcade behind the stage and the flames, clearly in view through the wide archways, added a soft red hue accenting the high ceiling and structure. The fairytale scene ignited romantic images from a bygone era of extravagance, legends and adventure.

One half expected Sultan Said and his peers to appear, the setting and ambiance was so compelling. The Palace’s high, thick walls were surprisingly cool and a refreshing breeze off the Indian Ocean kissed the warm evening air.

Into this delightful picture walked ‘Mezzotono,’ a group of four very talented singers who as their Italian name suggests, sang a medley of songs and tunes unaccompanied by instruments (except for a small guitar piece).  The high arched ceiling and setting acted as a natural amphitheatre; creating something far better than anything produced in the confines of a studio, and the subtle red and yellow candlelight lent a dramatic effect.

Whilst the concert unfolded, the silhouetted figure of someone dressed in a jelebiah relighting candles was reflected on the towering walls. It looked mysteriously like the ghost of Sultan Said!

The concert passed all too quickly, even with the addition of several encores before the four talented singers relinquished the stage to its previous grand owner!

In what was aptly known as the Palace’s ‘Representative Chambers’ during the Sultan’s rule, a feast had been prepared for after the concert.  Long tables with a mixture of culinary delights reflected the essence of Zanzibar. Accompanied by cold drinks, it was the perfect finale to a beautiful evening. Leaving through the grand entrance hall; a clear, star studded sky where the ceiling once was, I couldn’t help but say a quiet farewell to Princess Salme, through whose extensive writings Mtoni Palace lives on.

In collaboration with Zanzibar Archives, Mtoni Marine is funding the Mtoni Palace Conservation Project, restoring what remains of the Palace as well as its impressive general Baths and courtyard. To generate funds, the Mtoni Palace Conversation Project has organised an unforgettable tour around the Palace that reflects the spirit of Zanzibar’s potent history. Profits will be used for the conservation project.  One only hopes that this delightful concert was just a taste of what’s to come. Of course you never know who, or what else might join in the spirit of things!  The spirit of Sultan Said and Princess Salme lives on.

Authors notes:  More information can be sort through Mtoni Marine situated adjacent to the Palace ruins in Zanzibar. Mtoni Marine is owned and managed by Coastal Travels: www.coastal.cc

Princess Salme’s book is readily available and is titled, ‘Memoires of an Arabian Princess from Zanzibar.’

Mtoni Palace Conservation Project has produced a book on the palace titled ‘MTONI Palace, Sultan & Princess of Zanzibar,’ which was sponsored by The Netherlands Embassy in Dar es Salaam and Mtoni Marine.

Story & Photography by Colleen Hogg

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